Looking North from opposite Alma Road, about 1930
At
one time called "The King's Street", King Street until the mid
17th.century, was open to the town wall, and there was no building permitted on
its east side. The houses therefore had a very pleasant outlook across to the
town wall, with the denes and the sea beyond. The earliest remaining houses on
the west side now are Elizabethan, and some have a floor level a little below
the present street, but all of King Street is well above the original ground
level. I shall describe the street as
it is today, adding some details of earlier dwellings where appropriate. King Street starts at the Market Place in
the north, and runs to Friars Lane at its south end. On the east side, numbers
1 and 2 are Burton's clothing store, a national chain of outfitters. Next is
seen Marks and Spencer's store, completely destroyed by wartime bombing, it has
been rebuilt with some quality in its architecture. It sells clothing and fresh
food, all of high quality and reasonable value. Marks and Spencer's is on the
site of no.'s 3‑7 and once here was Bonings store, also selling
clothing. In July 1951 the site was
excavated to a depth of fourteen feet. There is a photograph of the works team,
and some by Rumbelow of the excavations. Augustus Wilson was pictured by him in
the excavation as site foreman.
His son gave me the picture of the workmen in
1992. The remarkable feature is that according to the diary of P.R., the site
was infilled soil to fourteen feet, under which was sand. In the infill was a
quantity of animal bones. When I examined some excavations at the south end of
the Market Place in Nov.1992, there was at least 7 feet of made ground, and
remains of animal bones were found, including part of the jaw of a small horse.
The original cobbled surface was about three feet below the present surface. I
have hopes that we can excavate here to ascertain the original land surface,
and also the origin and date of the animal bones. Row 64 is between Burton's and Marks and Spencer.
A
very early view from the corner of the Market place, maybe around 1860.
The
next store, that of Stead and Simpson at numbers 8 and 9, is on the south‑east
corner of row 65, and the old Theatre Tavern is behind. Stead and Simpson is a
national chain of shoe shops. Past Stead and Simpson is a solitary older
frontage, which is the premises of the Nationwide building society, who have
now reduced the number of their establishments by closing the one further
south. H.Samuel at no.11, is beside the row, a chain jewellery store. Between
the row and Regent Street was once Diver's substantial wines and Spirits store,
but it has been recently completely rebuilt as farmer's shoe shop. Row 69 lies between H.Samuel's shop, and
Richards and Clark's, which has just replaced Farmer's. (1992) On the west side of King Street, this
commences with no.184, beside row 60. 184 was occupied by the Gas Board
showroom, and W.H.Smith the well known stationery and publishing firm, is
no.183.
Row
63 is Quaker's Row, and no.182 is the old established publishing firm of
Jarrolds, that took over Nall's printing firm here, and before that was
Sloman's. On February 1st.1942, Rumbelow recorded that a fire had started as a
result of enemy bombs, and destroyed this block of property between rows 60 and
63. A piece of old walling was exposed that included two pointed archways. The
wall also showed traces of a vaulted ceiling. "The old wall openings
suggested that at the time that they were put up, the floor was at about the
present level." I am not sure what he means here, I am inclined to think
that the site he mentions was a wall at cellar level. He shows a sketch plan of
this piece of wall as being that dividing no. 184 from 183. No. 183 has been divided on this frontage
into three separate shops. The
northern one is Etam (clothing), the middle one is Superdrug, and the third is
now River Island clothing store, all previously Debenhams, who bought Arnolds
Department store. River Island sell mens clothing in the basement, and womens
on the ground floor, and are another large company with a national chain of
stores.
At
the south‑east corner of Regent Street, there was once a large and
splendid establishment, the Crown Hotel, now rebuilt with a modern ugly
"utilitarian" building, that recently housed Dewhurst butchers (now
empty), and still Sketchly that is a dry cleaners. Row 70 is here, and Timpsons
is a shoeshop that was rebuilt in more the old Yarmouth style. There is an appalling piece of 60's
architecture stuck into a gap between 176 and 174 King Street, formerly John
Menzies, the stationers, and which is now Adams the babywear specialists. Another excellent earlier building of some
style, originally built as Lyon's Tea House, which became Boots the Chemist, but
is now sadly not as well maintained, has become Freeman Hardy Willis, the shoe
store.
Continuing
the east side from Regent Road, there is Tom Green outfitter's, then nos.15 and
16, which was Wolseley and Wolseley, once piano dealers, but now Prudential
Assurance, with a Nationwide Anglia Building Society branch on the ground floor
that has just closed in 1992. Nos.17 and 18 were badly war damaged and
subsequently re‑built as one, although they had been two separate
buildings, R.J.Ward's ladies and gents hairdresser, and Fielding's cycle
agents. Here now are Faradays the jeweller, and a waterbed shop. The buildings
here were damaged by firebombs in 1942, at the same time as St.Nicholas Church.
In
1886 Wootton and Ward had been haircutters, wig makers and perfumiers. R.J.Ward
had the salt water baths on Marine Parade in the 1920's. Next, at no.19 is
comprise Ltd., a property and finance shop. Here in 1863, William Rumble (no
relation) had a china shop, and the adjacent row, no.81, was then called Rumble's
Row.
Row
81 on the right.
Further
along there has been a succession of shops in recent years. It is hard to keep
up with the changes as one business after another fails. At present we have at
nos.20 and 21, Weigh and Save, and The Toyshop, F.A.Kerrison. No.21, although
cement rendered, still has Georgian windows. No.22 has a fine Georgian facade,
but the upper windows are not original. This was Charles Hawkins' Black horse
estate agency, a subsidiary of LLoyds Bank, that has been here some 10 years.
Oxfam and Lamont window furnishing are at 23a and 23b, a house with a white
brick, early victorian front. Bananas
the fruiterer and Waveney Insurance are long established. These occupy no.24
and 24a, that lie on the north‑west corner of row 86. This house was once
the property of John Fisher, Mayor and brewer, who occupied no.55 North Quay.
(see description) Waveney Insurance is a flourishing and busy brokership, with
a branch in Lowestoft. Beyond row 86,
the shoe repairer, Helanor, had in 1994, been there some time.
In
the next building are three shops,
Wolsey and Wolsey, who trade under the former name no longer, here now
is "Variations". Once this was a family piano business at nos 15 and
16. Then there is Stirling Travel. Times furnishing seen in 1987, gave way to
Woodhouse furnishing, and now a video renting business, "Ritz". Past
the west end of row 91 was Interior People.
Next to row 91, previously Interior people and Bullen and Hoxley, surveyors,
there is now "Shapers", trimtone salon, who do facials, exercise,
massage, body treatments, hand and foot treatments etc. There is the florist at
29, Ralph Plummer the dentist was here in 1938. He subsequently moved his
practice to Greyfriars Chambers, and his nephew John took over in 1970, and has
now expanded to several surgeries
around the district, with 19 dental surgeons and 90 staff. John Plummer's
mother is one of the King family. (see "fishing") Above now is Holmes
and Co. solicitor. At 30 is the
restaurant, prev."Levels", then Nibbles but now empty. Doreen Florist
in 1938, and once the Model Dairy of Ormesby, in conjunction with Dairy farm,
where in 1994 resided my then partner Dr.Malcolm Cubie. This was a dairy
business in 1855. No.31 was a butcher's (Eric Barwood) in 1938, and then Archway
estate agency, previously Pennington's. The Brittannic Assurance co. have had
premises at no 32 since before the war.
The site of the splendid mansion owned by Dr.Thomas Penrice, surgeon to
the Norfolk Militia, is now the Methodist Hall, that was completely refurbished
and reopened as Christchurch in 1991. The money for this was obtained from the
sale of the Middlegate Church. There are plans of all the floors of Penrice's
mansion, obtained from the auction details. There is a description of it and Penrice's
inheritance, under row 98. (which row disappeared due to the building of the
mansion) Palmer refers to Penrice as Mr., but in fact he was a surgeon and
medical man to the militia in the town.
Victoria
Arcade on the left.
On the west side of King Street, the Victoria Arcade was built on the site of Lewis and Bourne's shop (see row 74), and Aldred's jewellers are on the site, established in 1795. (It amazes me actually how many jewellers there are in the town). The arcade has been very well maintained and is a credit to the town. At 171, Starlings in the last century, and Maypole Dairy in 1938, now the newsagent. This was beside row 78, now built over. The "bodies" dance and aerobics studio was started in 1980 by Suzie Claxton, who had started her sessions in the assembly room, rented at the town hall. The site of row 80 was between 167, and Prism Leisure (see row 80). Olivers shoes at 167 occupy the space between rows 80 and 82, and is now built so as to obliterate these two old rows. There are photos of Blaggs store here and Green the Hatter. (see row 80) The Georgian building that was Hayden's opticians at 166 was completely demolished and rebuilt in 1971. This picture is seen in the description with row 82, although it is on the south‑east corner of row 85. Hayden's is now in the new building at 163, and Abbotts estate agents at 164. The photos here are to be found under row 87, and a rare half cross row was here also, row 87 1/2. There is also an old postcard showing the interior. At 165/166 in 1971 was the Co‑op, but this moved to the market place, and 166 was re‑built as Divers Public House, a tenanted pub with a good trade, but high overheads.
No.162 is seen as St.George's Wine Vaults in 1971 (so called before the war), and is now Peggottys public house, next to Tara's bar. These establishments do an astonishing trade on friday and saturday nights, almost exclusively with the younger generation. (18‑30 year olds.) Tara's at 161, was pre‑war, the County Council Valuation Office, on the south‑east corner of row 89. At 160 was in 1938, Pearkes' Dairy, and then was the east entrance to row 90, the row that crossed Blind Middle Street, or Blind Howard Street, and has an interesting history. At 159a in 1938 Percy Ellis junior had a tobacconist shop. The Jetty Dining Rooms were sold by the Ellis Family at that time. (see Marine Parade) 160 King Street is a very ancient building, and Elizabethan jettied house, now the chinese restaurant, the "Great Wall of China". Row 93 is still remarkable, since it contains two old doorways complete with the original "troll‑posts", the wooden posts set into the ground and walls each side of the doorway to protect against injury from passing trollcarts whilst standing in ones doorway. These appear to be the only two such protected doorways that remain in the town. Between rows 93 and 95 are nos.157, the former record shop, and 158 the Jaipur Indian Restaurant. (well noted) 159 is "Save the Children", a charity shop. 159 was built in 1907. 157 was Hazel's fabrics, now empty. 156 is Andrew's chemists, built 1889. In 1938 this was that of Fred Liner, bought from him after the war by Frank Andrews.
Andrews’ Chemist shop.
In 1981 this became the property of the Ondhia brothers from Uganda, the family having been displaced by the tyrant Idi Amin. The shop of Pyper, then in St.Peter's Road, was also purchased by them at that time, and now they also have chemists in Acle and Brundle, and Buckingham's shop in Gorleston High Street. They, in 1989, have converted the rear part of the premises into a doctors surgery, at present occupied by Drs. Rossage and Suman. Mike Rossage is in the news at present because he has taken a stand against being forced to treat one or two violent and demanding drug addicts. A view with which I have some sympathy, but the medical profession has done little to address it. Row 93 precedes no.155 King Street, which, before the war, and in 1970, was the Carlton Commercial Hotel. Tom Goate, who had the coffee house at 155 in 1886, (see row 97) was a cousin (as far as is known) of the Goates at 47 North Quay.
He left this shop to buy the stone house on Hall Quay, and converted it into the Cromwell Temperance Hotel, in 1890, and died in c.1899. His widow survived him by only two or more years. Their children all left Yarmouth. Jack Weller, of the Plaza cinema, (see row 40) was proprietor of the Carlton Hotel here in 1938. There is still some very ancient walling in the rowside north wall of this building. 155 is at present empty on the ground floor, previously "D.I.A.L.", a charity shop, with David Phillips, architectural consultant, renting the office above. Row 95 is the famous Kitty witches row, famous mainly for its unusual name, and its narrowness. There is now an entrance into the surgery here. Row 97 was Lawyer Bell's row, Bell helped relieve the famine in 1766, and there is a considerable history to this row. (also some in row 93) Beyond row 97 are 154, 155, and 156, and then row 99. 154 is currently "The shack" clothing, and Allied Team Recruitment ltd. Next is 153, Hedgehog records, and 152 is Balmforth Estate Agents. After row 99 was the Penrice Arms at 151. Here now are the popular 151 club discotheque, with Ashley Point Nightclub, open until 2 a.m.
Row 101 precedes the 1930‑70 shop of Miss Faulke, milliner, for about 8 years this was Mr. Leungs Restaurant, which had branches in other towns, including Lowestoft, but from about 1994-2001 at least remains empty, the annuall rental having been too high to continue to run or attract another restaurant. This is in part of the old Brunswick Hotel, which has long been at no 149, and remains a popular young person's nightclub, and has some vacant office space to let above, all in the ownership of Peter Jay.
Row 102 preceded Frere's Wine Merchants. At 148/147 is the Estate Agents. In 1973 the Great Yarmouth Executive Council for the National Health Service had their offices here, but in 1994 this was all administered by the Family Health Service Association at Duke Street in Norwich, and in 2001, by the local primary healthcare trust, after yet another politically inspired reorganisation. All the buildings between here and row 107 were demolished to create Yarmouth Way. The south side of row 107 is now the south side of Yarmouth Way where it joins the quay, but the east end is on the south side of the furniture store. The furniture store was built as St.Georges church rooms, and still used as such in 1973. Now it is empty and for let. (no.145) Beyond is Margaret Ann, ladies hairdresser at no.144, and Daykin's bakery at no. 143 was converted into offices in 1986. V.E.Morris the radio dealer at no.142, is "Bargain Buy".(still Mr. Morris) 141 was in 1973 the office of S.L.P., offshore engineering, but they now have their offices in Lowestoft. 141 is now Pannell Kerr and Forster, accountants, but for many years had been a doctor's house, latterly Hardy and Smellie in 1973. On the south side of row 109 was the Lion and Lamb P.H., now called Kittywitches, and closed up. (see row 109) This is no.140.
At 139 in 1936 was Harry Laxton, photographer, in 1973 and now it is R.and M.Edwards, the fabric people. At 138, Fred Emms auctioneer of 1973, is now the suite centre, moved here from 145. It had been John Howkins' antiques until in 1992 he has moved that business to Norwich. At 137 there was a fish andchip shop, "Mad Mikes'", but for five years now this has been Piggys Pizza Parlour. No.136 has row 110 on the north side, and row 113 on the south. 136 was Bellamy the butcher's. (picture‑see row 110) Row 113 was Ferrier's row. Dr. Ferrier had the house at no.135 King Street, that was Walter Beebee's confectioner's, and now is Peter Howkins' jeweller's. Doctor Ferrier was Yarmouth's first coroner. (see row 113) Between rows 113 and 116 was again a single dwelling. This was Camplings laundry shop in 1973, and now is Alma Cycles, at 134. Row 116, was Sam Hurry's Row. In Palmer's Perlustration is a print of his house, no.133.
Number 133 King Street, beside Row 116, was Skippings' Drapery Shop, sold in 2001 for £90,000, to be converted back to a private house. The history of this fine and original house are as follows:
In 1729 John Dowson of Gt.Yarmouth, Mariner, was to marry Elizabeth Gibson. As a result, the new built tenement or dwelling house on this site, with out‑houses, stables, cellars and yards, having belonged to Henry Wright a mariner, then deceased, and having passed to his son, Henry Wright, then passed to Dowson, together with the malt‑house. The previous house on this site was owned by the historian Peter Le Neve. On the east at that time was the open ground of the Denes (Dene side). On the north was the row, and to the south the house that had been owned by Richard Betts, and then Isaac Sayer. The house was conveyed to the use of Elizabeth Gibson for her lifetime, and then to their children. On the 8th.Feb.1757, the year prior to the date of Swinden's map, Henry Gibson Dowson, had died as their son and heir, and was described as having been a merchant. He passed the property to his son in turn, having the same name. On the death of Elizabeth, the wife of Nathaniel Colby of Great Yarmouth, the dwelling house, then occupied by Nathaniel Colby. In 1772 the property included kilns, leaden steeps and a malthouse. There was a lease between the son, Benjamin Dowson on 14th.May 1772, merchant and only brother of Henry Gibson Dowson, who had died., and Samuel Hurry, merchant. It was sold to Hurry on a lease, for 290 pounds. It was then abutting upon the yard of the malthouse and ground of Thomas Dowson, late in occupation of Thomas Daid.The drainage was granted through the yard of the malthouse. There was a spout receiving water from the roof of the granary chamber, and leading to the rainwater cistern of the house. There was also a key for Thomas Hurry to a lock of Dowson's used to secure the gate of the yard leading off the row. Also there was free passage through the yard of the malthouse to empty waste, and to have water at the well standing in the yard of the malthouse, and allowing one half of the expense of repairing the well and pump. On 21st.March, 1799, Samuel Hurry, by will, appointed his executors; the will proved on 4th.June 1800. 31st.July 1801, Thomas Hurry, merchant, Edmund Cobb Hurry, merchant, and James Hurry, grocer, executors of Samuel Hurry, and Samuel Bell (of Hopton Hall and Row 97), sold the premises by public auction at the Kings Head. At the auction on 2nd January, no‑one attended to bid! As a result the premises were sold to Sam Bell for 500 pounds. This then was described as abutting upon a dwelling‑house, late a malthouse, late in possession of Benjamin Dowson and the of Mary Norton, Widow. So it can be seen that the malthouse had become redundant, and converted into a dwelling between 1772 and 1801. Three days later, on 3rd Aug 1801, Sam Bell sold the property back to Thomas Hurry only, and for the same sum of 500 pounds, so Bell was simply acting as solicitor, and not as a speculator. On 18th May 1812, Robert Alderson, administrator of Isabella Alderson, spinster deceased all Heirs of Samuel Hurry, with Samuel Hurry Alderson of Caius College Cambridge and William George Millman, captain of the Royal Berks.Militia and Elizabeth Hurry his wife. Money from this was to go to the grand‑children of Isabella Alderson, Edward Hall Alderson and Elizabeth Hurry Millman. Isabella Alderson died unmarried and intestate. This appears to be when Joseph Goulding Plummer purchased the property as a school. Separately as to the rooms at the back of the messuage. These had been evidently made from the malthouse, conveyed separately. This deed is missing but was said to be evidence of Thomas Dowson's title to the malthouse and ground, as leased to William Norfor and Robert Cory for 63 pounds, 18th.May 1772. Joseph Plummer's school was the last use of the building as a house in its form as shown in the print of Thomas Hurry's House, since it was subsequently converted into the grocers shop of the Carrs, which then became Skippings Drapers. A tour of the house now reveals a small section of 18th c. wainscotting inside the door from the row. The cellars are accessed through a separate door from the row, and here there is an old front cellar entrance from the King's street, that has long been filled in by the boxed out shop front, and the original cellar under the yard behind the house in Swinden's time before Hurry rebuilt it. This is the brick vaulted portion at the south‑west corner of the cellar. The upstairs rooms have all been altered and partitioned. The attics are original, and there is an old narrow staircase down the west aspect of the building from the attic, whilst the main stairway has been removed because of the shop, and there is another up to the bedrooms from the row entrance. Here is row 119. At 132 is an old house, owned by Ralph Howkins, one of the prettiest properties in the street. No.131 was for many years Abbey King crockery shop. This moved in 1990 to no.123a, but has now gone to Norwich, and in 1992 there is an office supply shop at 123a. At 132, the shop is empty in 1992. 132 was in 1938, Bartram's pawnbroker. Then comes row 119. At 131 in 1938 was Russell Blake, stationer, then briefly, crockery king, now empty. No.130 was a private house, at prevent Bob Durant's Sewing Machine Shop, next to Bridge Communications and King St.Printers. (no.128a., prev. a hairdresser. The other half of the same building, now Florentines, a first rate shop, selling oriental ornamental goods, is sadly closing down due to poor sales. Then comes row 120. 127 was in 1938 a private house, and 127a a cycle dealer, Douglas Friend. 126 was in 1938, Coward the florist. Then comes row 121. 125 was built in 1854. In 1938 it was Eastman's butchers; last E.Teasdale, butcher, this has been long empty. In 1938, Mrs.Jane Barnes had a sweet shop at no.124. Presently this is D.and P.Stores, a general store. Next is row 122. At no.123a in 1938 was George Cook, butcher, and 123 housed J.A.Sturton, china dealers. Herbert Hutchison, furniture dealer was at no 122, and Olive Allon, grocers, at no.121, on the north‑east corner of row 125, naming the row at that time. Row 125 is the famous gun row, where Charles Allman had a bakery at the turn of the century. (later Darn's) Latterly this was known as Allon's Row. A simple but remarkable feature still exists in row 125, which is the oak post fixed onto the north‑east corner wall just inside the row entrance. This is the post placed there to protect the corner of the building from damage by passing troll carts. At no.120, in 1938 this was Sam Lissack, tobacconist. In 1977 this was a high class boutique‑ "Safari". This did not do too well and since 1980, it has been Brenda's (Loveday) wool shop. It was built in 1901. Beyond this pre‑war were three more shops, and row 127, which was foundry row. Now this has been replaced by the typical council flats. After row 127 were four more shops, and row 130. These have all been demolished, and now we have Nottingham way, though the south side of row 130 was and is the Old White Lion pub. once owned by the Symonds family, and then the Fishers.
Between the Old White Lion and Friars Lane now lie large blocks of council flats, architecturally awful, replacing all the ancient dwellings in the southernmost part of the town with new dwellings that have rapidly become slum‑like in most cases. Certainly there are modern facilities here, but although enormous amounts of money have been expended this year (1994) to improve them, many have been instantly vandalised again. It is to be hoped that eventually the whole will be again demolished and replaced with some more classical dwellings, and all on the medieval building line(s).
The corner of Alma Road and King St., 1971, PGT.
To continue the east side of King Street, from Christchurch, there is firstly St George's Hall, now used as a theatre, which was formerly the chapel of ease to St.Nicholas Church. On the east side, from St.George's Theatre, there is on the corner of St.George's Plain, empty premises, in 1977 this was "flames St.Georges", run by the Gallaghers, whichbecame Marlins' restaurant, and then Pancho Villa's Mexican Restaurant. It has been empty in excess of a year. No.34 is a private house. 35 is Barry Howkins' Antiques. For some years Barry Howkins had been living in Spain, and the business run by his son Ian. At 36 is Zaks American style restaurant, part owned by Peter Howkins, which is remarkably popular. At 37 is A.and C. menswear. 38 is a Queen Ann house, recently refronted. Some huge flints were present within the front wall, which was bowing out and cracking, and completely rebuilt. The house was converted into 4 flats and a cafe in 1988, but is currently for sale with only two flats occupied. At nos.39 and 40 is the former Gas Board Showroom, where once worked Albert Boldra, whose father was the gaslighter. (see rows 113, 123) This is now Peter Howkins' Antiques Showroom.
Credence House, 1971, PGT.
No.41 is Credence House, David Howkins' charity museum. (Museum of Toys and dolls) King's Winebar is at no.41 and 42.
Igloo Foods became Granville’s , then the King’s Winebar.
At 42a. there is now a flat above the winebar, but this was previously Paul Robinson's Architectural consultancy, which has expanded and become very successful. This now is at the old vicarage, Church Plain. At 43 in 1994, was Formby's Restaurant and tearooms, run by Valerie Howkins, bought by me November 1996, to become the Leonard Ley Surgery. Number 44 is a private house. No. 45 is Dave’s hairdressers, in 1971 Richard’s shop, as seen in Percy Trett’s photo.
No. 47 is La Grande Mode bespoke tailors, and the other half of the same building, York Hardware, had for many years occupied the whole building.
King Street from the corner of York Road, 1900 or earlier.
It now incorporates a Juggling workshop, selling Indian Juggling Clubs and suchlike. 48a is First‑timer's residential management and property letting services, which has no.48 behind, some flats in the original pub smoking room, and above. At 49, is "Bliss", selling second‑hand records, and nextdoor, Whittakers Govt.surplus store has closed and moved out. No.51 is of course the working mans club, once mrs.Kemps.
No 52 being rebuilt as an extension of the club. In 2001 the whole remains empty, having closed c 1998.
There was once a shop at 52, which was pulled down and then rebuilt as part of the enlarged club. There remains a well in the basement here, and there are vaulted wine cellars that once served as wartime air‑raid shelters, with an entrance from the street. The entrance to the cellar in use as a wartime air-raid shelter is visible in the upper picture. The photo above and sketch plan of the layout of rooms is from Percy Trett.
55 King Street c1989
Deeds of the properties that had been previously on this
site.
55 King Street 1987. The entrance then was up the steps on the left, that door leading into the waiting room that was in the single storey extension, as built by Wisemans in c1965.